Palenque is not "Mexico".
Forget the crowded beaches of Cancun, barracaded & over-touristed steps of Chicen Itza, or the standard Mexican fare that can be found even in Los Anageles. Palenque, Mexico, nestled in the foothills of Chiapas, offers a captivating glimpse into a unique Mayan past finding its way in a more modern world. Despite clocking in at just 4.2 square miles (11 km²), Palenque and its people had plenty to offer for 10 days of exploration. Here's a taste of the wonders we got
Ancient Mayan Palace & Temple Ruins just as beautiful as Chichen Itza, but so much less trafficked that it's still possible to climb the stairs and imagine the world from their vantage point.
In-tact temple carvings reflecting the Mayan people's minds for math, cyclical patterns, and view of human relationship as balanced (and maybe even subordinate to nature) not the other way around.
4 Beautiful Waterfalls within 4 square miles each of which with its own native community. If you're lucky (and generous enough) locals show you how to swim up the falls and ride the current down safely - and yes there's always the risk of being sucked down into the under ground river systems that distribute the life-sustaining fresh water across the content (beautiful and dangerous)
The best damn green mangoes, fried platanos, jackfruit trees, refried black beans, and black mole... American "farm to table" doesn't even compare
A rousing Presidential Election sparking both hope and tension as indigenous people and much of the south have historically lacked representation.
Kids & teenagers that actually (GASP) talk and play rather than sit stuck to their smart phones and spend more time running around and catching fish with waterbottles at the waterfalls than taking selfies & butt shots for social media.
Most importantly for our trip, experiencing what it's like to be part of a giant Mexican family where the number one value is family. Where everyday the family re-arranged their lives to show us their favorite hidden gems, drive us around so we never had to take a taxi, share with us what it's like to run local businesses from rubber & palm oil ranches, to a bio-diverse farm that attracted 2000 people from around the world to await the Mayan 2012 end of the world (long story), endangered species regenerative farming, the first hotels in the region, and even art traditions & education sponsored by the local government.
So What is Palenque?
A Mayan Powerhouse (226 BC - 799 AD): Unlike its more well-known counterparts like Chichen Itza or Tikal, Palenque's peak coincides with the Classic Period (250-900 AD) – a time of great artistic and intellectual development for the Maya. Evidence of this flourishing can be seen in the city's impressive architecture, intricate sculptures, and hieroglyphic inscriptions.
Respect for Ancestral Heritage: The ancient ruins of Palenque are a testament to the Mayan civilization’s advanced understanding of architecture, astronomy, and spirituality. The preservation of these ruins and the respect for ancestral knowledge are central to the region’s values and are a designated UNESCO world heritage site.
Harmony with Nature: Palenque is set amidst the lush jungles of Chiapas, and the Mayans built their city in harmony with the natural environment. This value of coexisting with nature continues to be significant for the local communities.
Community and Family Bonds: The social structure of the Mayans was deeply rooted in community and family. Modern-day inhabitants of the region still place a high value on maintaining strong family ties and communal support systems.
Spiritual Beliefs: The Mayans had a complex religious system with gods representing natural elements and celestial bodies. The spiritual beliefs that shaped their daily lives and rituals are still evident in the cultural practices of the region.
Artistic Expression: The intricate carvings and hieroglyphs found in Palenque demonstrate the value the Mayans placed on artistic expression as a means of documenting history and mythology.
Cultural Fusion: Palenque's location, bordering Guatemala and the Yucatan peninsula, has further shaped its unique cultural identity. This strategic location placed it at the crossroads of major trade routes, fostering cultural exchange and innovation during the Mayan era. The lush rainforest environment, fed by the Usumacinta River and abundant rainfall, provided fertile land for agriculture and a natural defense against enemies. The Mayan people laid the foundation, with their language still influencing the local dialect spoken today – a mix of Spanish and Mayan words called Palenquero. This linguistic fusion reflects the historical trade routes and cultural exchange that flourished due to Palenque's strategic position. Mayan traditions have melded with those of surrounding populations, creating a unique cultural tapestry evident in everything from local cuisine to religious practices.
Tropical Temperament: Prepare for a warm and humid climate year-round. Average temperatures hover around 80°F (27°C) with highs reaching the mid-80s (30°C) and lows dipping to the mid-70s (24°C) at night. The rainy season stretches from June to October, bringing lush greenery and refreshing afternoon showers. However, the dry season (November to May) offers sunshine and clear skies perfect for exploring the ruins. It was literally 107 degrees while we were there!
Political Enigmas: Compared to other Mayan cities, Palenque's political history remains shrouded in some mystery. While deciphered hieroglyphs reveal a lineage of powerful rulers like Pacal the Great, the exact reasons for the city's decline around 800 AD are still debated by archaeologists.
Modern Mayan Mosaic: Today, Palenque is a thriving town where Mayan descendants carry on their traditions. The local economy relies on a mix of tourism, agriculture (known for its delicious coffee and tropical fruits!), and traditional crafts. While hard statistics on the percentage of small business owners are unavailable, it's evident in the bustling market scene. Local families run shops selling everything from traditional Mayan crafts and textiles to fresh produce grown in the fertile surrounding land. The influence of the jungle is evident, with vendors offering locally sourced honey, coffee, and exotic fruits like mangoes and rambutans.
What's next?
Social media is making travel look predictable.
Hit the tourist spots, snap selfies...
drink overpriced margaritas, snap selfies...
collect souvenirs, snap selfies...
This trip to Palenque, Mexico (and every trip we take) is different. It's about ditching the script and diving headfirst into the heart of a place, finding family in a group of strangers who talk and act completely different than what I'm used to, and stimulating inspiration and ideas from everyday experiences.
If you're here looking for the typical selfies & butt shots but with the twist of an exotic background, hit the back button. If you've gotten this far and your curiosity is piqued about seeing the white space in travel experiences and truly being present in a world far different, get ready for a taste of Palenque. A place that'll challenge assumptions, open eyes, and maybe even make you crave some fresh-off-the-tree mango.
Stay tuned for deep dives into Palenque's beautiful waterfalls, food, local businesses, and more... some of it through GoPro videos, others with 35mm black and white film photos, and the rest from a smartphone cam whenever i was just too lazy or out of film!
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